Sunday, April 3, 2011

Honeymoon Shopping Spree, Part 3: "Satin Slippers... Three Inches High"

"And the darling little bonnets that were not really bonnets at all, but flat little affairs worn over one eye and laden with fruits and flowers, dancing plumes and fluttering ribbons!  (If only Rhett had not been so silly and burned the false curls she bought to augment her knot of Indian-straight hair that peeked from the rear of these little hats!)  And the delicate convent-made underwear!  How lovely it was and how many sets she had!  Chemises and nightgowns and petticoats of the finest linen trimmed with dainty embroidery and infinitesimal tucks.  And the satin slippers Rhett bought her!  They had heels three inches high and huge glittering paste buckles on them." 
--Gone with the Wind, Chapter XLVIII

Today brings the last post in our Honeymoon Shopping Spree series, where we take a look at the luxurious loot Scarlett received on her honeymoon, from bonnets to lingerie and now finally slippers. To help you envision what Scarlett's fancy footwear may have looked like, we have an 1868 full-color fashion plate comprised entirely with shoes, from dainty slippers to everyday boots. To my mind at least, the bottom right pair of slippers seems like a good match to MM's description of Scarlett's own satin slippers, albeit much shorter of course. What do you think? Are there any pairs of shoes that you especially like or could see Scarlett wearing?

Fashion plate of ladies' shoes. The Queen, January 25th 1868.

Description: "Seven shoes are displayed. The top left shoe is a white flat with a small heel, and a small cording bow on the front of the shoe. The top right is a gray flat slipper, trimmed with ruffles and a gold ornament in the front. The middle row left is a brown ankle boot with a low heel, with black ruffles around the top and down the front. The center shoe is a higher ankle boot with a short heel. It has buttons down the front and a patent leather toe. The middle row right is another ankle boot with a short heel. It has brown fur around the top and buttons down the front. The bottom row left is a dark pink backless slipper with a low heel. It is heavily decorated with gold trim, tassels, and cording. The bottom right is a light pink low-heeled slipper. It has a black and gold ornament on the front and black lace around the sides, and a darker pink heel."


Saturday, April 2, 2011

Rue de la Paix

Sigh, few things could possibly be more romantic than Rhett and Scarlett exchanging love letters. And that's the theme of this week's fanciful collage, which charmingly even features the duo's signatures. It makes us wonder if Rhett remained true to his promise to write Scarlett from England. Wouldn't you love to see what those letters (and Scarlett's own replies) contained? 




Thursday, March 31, 2011

Poster of the Week

Three's company in this poster from Italy, which features the hapless Ashley Wilkes surrounded on each arm by the women who love him. 

Image from moviegoods.com.

Monday, March 28, 2011

Honeymoon Shopping Spree, Part 2: "Delicate Convent-Made Underwear"

"And the darling little bonnets that were not really bonnets at all, but flat little affairs worn over one eye and laden with fruits and flowers, dancing plumes and fluttering ribbons!  (If only Rhett had not been so silly and burned the false curls she bought to augment her knot of Indian-straight hair that peeked from the rear of these little hats!)  And the delicate convent-made underwear!  How lovely it was and how many sets she had!  Chemises and nightgowns and petticoats of the finest linen trimmed with dainty embroidery and infinitesimal tucks.  And the satin slippers Rhett bought her!  They had heels three inches high and huge glittering paste buckles on them." 
--Gone with the Wind, Chapter XLVIII

Today we're back with the second installment in our Honeymoon Shopping Spree series, where we take a look at some of the fabulous goods Scarlett purchased (or had purchased for her) during her honeymoon in New Orleans. Last week, we explored bonnets and up next is lingerie, an obvious honeymoon staple of time eternal, it seems. So what kinds of delicate underthings would a fashionable 1868 bride like Scarlett have tucked away in her trousseau?

To help answer that question, we've gathered some helpful pointers from articles appearing in 1868-69 editions of Godey's Lady's Book that describe the latest trends in ladies' undergarments. With MM's description as our guide in this matter, it's of course safe bet that Scarlett had the very best of everything, especially if Rhett was actively involved in the selection process as he likely was. To round out our overview, we also found a full-color fashion plate that illustrates the latest French lingerie fashions from 1868. Go ahead and check it all out. 

A bridal trousseau should include at least 18 sets of undergarments.
"As it is often a difficult matter for young ladies to know what articles to get in purchasing a trousseau, perhaps a few hints on the subject would not be objectionable to our readers....In all purchases care should be taken to remember that it is better to have one really good article than two of an inferior quality. In under-clothing a dozen and a half of the principal articles is a fair quantity, and not too much."

What undergarments should include tucks, puffs, and ruffles? Why, all of them!  
"Tucks, puffs, and ruffles, adorn all underclothing, and, since the advent of sewing-machines, the labor of making them is small, beside the endless stitching formerly done by the hands, with such detriment to health and eyesight."
  
For chemises, use the finest linen and have matching drawers.
"The imported chemise of finest linen is made in the sack shape, with sleeves and skirt in one... The fall should be richly trimmed and made deep enough to reach to the waist. A cluster of tucks above the hem is the only trimming admissible on the skirt. Drawers are buttoned at the sides, and worn narrow and short, reaching just below the knee. They should be trimmed to match the chemise."

Night-dresses are enchanting when adorned with elaborate lace and silk details.
"Night-dresses can be had most elaborately trimmed; we have lately seen some fronts composed almost entirely of one broad piece of Valenciennes lace made on purpose, and stitched in with a band of jaconet muslin. This was of course lined with colored silk, and was very elegant."

Corset covers look lovely with several inches of trimming about the neck.
"Corset covers, or under-bodies, have short darts in front, and are sloped over the hips. The trimming around the neck is two or three inches deep. The sleeves are a single short puff, or else entirely formed of trimming."

Imitation lace? Perish the thought!   
"One word of advice— never purchase imitation lace. The plainest linen collar, and plain hemmed handkerchief are more to be desired than the best imitation lace ones that can be bought."



Petit courrier de dames, 1868.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Rue de la Paix

Occasionally, I'll dabble in making a few GWTW collages myself. So this week, here is a simple little collage I made of Rhett and Scarlett, featuring one of our all-time blog favorite photos (the sideways look-and-kiss shot...awww!) 


Rhett and Scarlett
Rhett and Scarlett by gwtwscrapbook on Polyvore.com


Thursday, March 24, 2011

Poster of the Week

With bold colors set against a fiery sky, this French poster offers a dramatic portrayal of Rhett and Scarlett's flight from Atlanta.  

Image from movieposterdb.com


Sunday, March 20, 2011

Honeymoon Shopping Spree, Part 1: "Darling Little Bonnets"

"And the darling little bonnets that were not really bonnets at all, but flat little affairs worn over one eye and laden with fruits and flowers, dancing plumes and fluttering ribbons!  (If only Rhett had not been so silly and burned the false curls she bought to augment her knot of Indian-straight hair that peeked from the rear of these little hats!)  And the delicate convent-made underwear!  How lovely it was and how many sets she had!  Chemises and nightgowns and petticoats of the finest linen trimmed with dainty embroidery and infinitesimal tucks.  And the satin slippers Rhett bought her!  They had heels three inches high and huge glittering paste buckles on them."
--Gone with the Wind, Chapter XLVIII

As frequent readers of the blog, you are no doubt familiar with two key facts: we have a penchant for series here and I in particular am enthralled by old fashion plates. So it's only natural that today we offer you a new, albeit small, series featuring--you guessed it!--more vintage fashion plates! And while much of our fashion coverage to date has focused on dresses, we're turning the page for a while and giving accessories their turn in the sun. Over the next three weeks, we'll be exploring the fantastic loot, as described in the quote above, that Scarlett amassed on her honeymoon: bonnets, lingerie, and shoes.

Up first is a look at the "darling little bonnets" the new Mrs. Butler procured during her stay in New Orleans. As we've seen time and time again, Margaret Mitchell's description here is uncannily faithful to the historical record.  Although we can't be certain of the exact timing of Rhett and Scarlett's wedding and subsequent honeymoon, we do know that they announced their engagement a week after the Georgia gubernatorial election, held from April 20-24 1868. And by the early summer of 1868, Godey's Lady's Book was bemoaning the present state of bonnets, which were becoming increasingly small and flower-laden:
"How are we to speak of bonnets each time it falls to our lot to describe them? They are smaller than the last; those now worn are the smallest yet seen. If they go on decreasing, soon they will be nothing but illusion strings fastened on the top by a spray of flowers. The latest novelty is a bonnet (we had better say a small headdress) entirely composed of flowers; we saw them of small roses, pansies, field daisies, violets, etc."
--excerpted from Godey's Lady's Book, June 1868
Godey's notes a month later that the trend of the-incredible-shrinking-bonnet had continued on unabated--and also put forth an interesting explanation as to why. As it was rather en vogue at the time for ladies to sport wildly elaborate hairstyles, piled high with masses of curls and jewelry, bonnets needed to be very small to complement such coiffures. Perhaps that's why Rhett consigned Scarlett's false curls to the fire?
"In bonnets there is no change from last month; the only difference consists in the size, which, as the weather grows warmer, seems to become smaller; in fact, so elaborate is the hair-dressing, that we cannot better describe it than in the words of a foreign journal, which gives the following amusing advice on the subject: “One general receipt, somewhat in the style adopted in cookery-books, may be given. Take as much hair as you can, either in the shape of curls, bows, frizzed chignons, or otherwise (as yet, hair of the same color as your own is preferred) arrange it in a confused mass as high on the head as you can, and you can then add as much gold, or silver, or steel ornaments, or diamonds, or, in fact, anything shining, as you can lay your hands on, and you will not be far out of the fashion.” While the dressing of the hair continues so elaborate bonnets must decrease in size, for there is really no place on the head for the bonnet to rest."
--excerpted from Godey's Lady's Book, July 1868
After the jump, we've collected five 1868 fashion plates of bonnets, so you can get a sense of the fanciful creations that Scarlett could have donned. Take a look and let us know what you think. Are there any that you believe Scarlett would have especially liked? 

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